Sailing in Sweden. Lovely crisp mornings and warm sunny afternoons. Good breeze. Lovely harbors. Friendly people. Great food.
We are in Sweden to get away from the heat. We have succeeded beyond expectations. Summer here ends promptly at end of July. More like fall in northern Ontario. Even looks the same with rocks and pine trees mostly. Lots of wind. Tieing bow to a tree on a rock is a new experience. Fun trip. Nice to think about what we might want in next boat.
Fri August 19
Back at guest dock at Saltzjobaden boat club. Pleasant power fro Stockholm. Exchanged contact info with Charles on the Mooddey 33 with the white ensign.
Followed the ferry through the twisty little passage. Must be a tight fit for him.
Franz & Monique
Mon August 15
Wasahamn. Weather not looking great for week.
Great sail. Wind 20+ cold. Overcast bit of rain. Decided to stop at Orno rather than continue to auto. Found nice anchorage on Orno at Kolnasviken. Stem anchor. Bow tied to tree on shore. One of mike’s objectives. Franz to bow line ashore with dinghy. Not steep enough to get up to bank to step off. Guys next to us just used bow ladder to step off
Several other boats. 3 anchored. 3-4 tied to trees like us. Docks and stern mooring provided as well.
Tue August 16
Delightful morning having coffee and breakfast in the cockpit in the sunshine. Neighbor swam. Monique and Franz thought about swimming but decided it was not warm enough.
Set off with second reef and Genoa. Winds mostly 20+. Sailed to kalvholmarna for lunch stop. Tied to tree with stem anchor. Got stern anchor line around prop Mike cut tape with bread knife. Water cold but not dangerous.
Powered to Agno – napoleonviken. Nice deep natural harbor. Lots of boats. Came in between two. Tied to tree. Nice sheer rocks at shore. Nice neighbors. Tour of very narrow classic. Daughter Anna took us to the top of the Mountain on this island. She and her dad skate from Saltzjobaden in winter. Anna was an instructor at a KSSS camp. Kids sail international folk boats on overnights. She will be going to New Zealand for several months. This is typical. Kids travel for 1-2 years after high school before college.
Wed Aug 17
Back in Stockholm at Wasahamn by about 1. Overcast. Drizzle Windy. Mid 50s so being back in marina seemed best. We did follow the river into Gothenberg harbor. Looks interesting but forecast for rain early afternoon.
Beer from the craft microbrewery bar on the quay. Sampled several Monique had sort of shandy with beer and elderflower. Interesting. Food was mainly limited to flat bread cooked in a green egg. Bar guy was from Glasgow. Too cold to sit outside.
Lunch at restaurant in the Spirit museum. Says it is new and acclaimed. Interesting pretty small sandwiches. Milke had dry pan roasted beans with row. Edible flowers included. My anchovies and onion sandwich was on very thin grilled rye bread. F& M sandwich I he’s and desserts equally interesting. Nice chat with the waiter. University degree in somelier. Working waiter able to live and pay off small student loan for living expenses. Tuition was free. Very competitive to get into his course though.
Met back at boat at 4:30. Ferry to Gamal Stan. Nobel museum. Good videos about 6-7 laureates. Rest was small and odd collection of artifacts. Dinner at one of the restaurants on square around museum. Salmon was good. Portion was tourist size much larger than it some other restaurants serving primarily Swedes. Mike and Franz had herring and salmon sampler.
Thursday. Aug 18
Beautiful blue sky at 7. Overcast by 9 museum day. Monique back to museum of modern art Mike and Valerie to Nordics museum then back to boat. V to Gamal stadium to wander and look at shops. Franz went to Wasa museum, nor disk museum. Dance museum. Old town to model boat shop. Met up with Monique in museum of modern art. Back to boat to get their stuff and take tram and bus to central station to get train to airport. Good fun having them along for a few days.
Dinner at Oaxen Slip bistro. Interesting Swedish menu. Pleasant atmosphere. Tucked away behind juries n. Many older boats, some house boats.
Sat August 13
Foggy. 59 degrees. Much warmer overnight than last 2. Mike ordered buns from dock blonde so will wait for them to be delivered at 9 and weather to clear as forecast.
Was able to add a new 24 hour pass to the transit cards. One trip for wine. One trip to go on a boat tour. Some problem with overbooking, so we got a refund and got a one free ticket for the shorter Royal Canal tour. Worked out ok. Shoppe d for dinner on the way home. iCA is open late.
Sun August 14.
Wasahamn. Shopping for groceries. F&M bringing wine. Tram back to Kung garden to look for long sleeve shirt. Xxl sports huge. H&M didn’t really have anything. Did find system blog on lower level of stores off entrance directly across from the tram stop. Looks like an entrance into Nak but actually shopping center. Much like Toronto eating center. Shops. Restaurants along ground level and under ground passages and metro stops.
24 hour pass worked out well. In addition to shopping and transit to boat tour yesterday, we took the ferry round trip to the old city and back. One fare, great views of the city from the front deck of the boat.
Can purchase then activate with first use in the future. Will fill up mom for use sat. Mike is concerned that we may need to take bus to airport from Saltsjobaden and no way to buy ticket there without chip and pin. ‘
Dinner at Bla Porten. Sort of a cafeteria. Lovely garden but too cool to sit out. Order, pay, then wait for your plate. Take it to your table on your tray. Weird. Food pretty goo. Not cheap but most food is expensive no matter how good it is.
Guy on Moody 33 next to us is retired Royal Navy. Appears to be traveling alone. Pleasant brief chat.
220 fish trivet and refrig magnet
260. Boat hat for Jeff. 2 coffee mugs
79. Wasa tea towel
Sail or power. Power might be more versatile for canals as well as coastal. Retractable keel useful in shallow water. Sail need more versatility. Small jib and/or constructed to sail partially furled. Reefs for main.
Jenneau 35 Sun Fast. Good size. Freeboard ok for most docks. Wide stern step and swim platform. Carpet at base of companionway, galley nice. Easy to clean. Non skid. Tape reel for stern anchore or mooring. Need length in some cases. Nice big storage locker. Although holding tank is located in this locker too. Overflow over side so shouldn’t be a problem. Access through head. Good size separate shower toilet.
Dogger ok. Can’t see instruments when down unless tie out of way. Hard to get stern bout with dogger up. Poor visibility. Nice hand rail on back of doggerel.
Bow sprit and removable ladder pretty good. Saw ladder that just had extensions to top that fitted through sprit so no additional hardware required.
Remove able Cockpit table a nuisance. One head. Hard to get in out of aft double bunk. Jib cover separate. Justified on racing boat.
CBB. Need metal hook for grabbing stern mooring buoy. Better at bow without hook.
Dufour 38 YouTube. Light bright modern interior. Boom at waist height. 2 heads and shower. 2 cabins. Aft sleep across stern. Better access. Linear galley. Locker
Maybe center cockpit so aft cabin with good headroom like Barbarossa.
Thurs Aug 11
Cold overnight and still windy. Says it is about 50 deg at 10am. Starting to clear. Stuff hand washed and hung in the boat to dry still isn’t dry. Too windy to put out. Get out the supply of warmer clothes including socks and scarf. Sandhamn beanie hat seems like a better purchase today than it did yesterday in the sunshine.
Fika at cafe. Shared table with guys sailing. SWE 345? In Dragon Nationals. Daughter at school inn Santa Barbara. Works foray mm. Familiar with Bay Area. Other guy flew. In from Miami yesterday. He had been. To a St. FYC Stag cruise. Small. World.
Classic boats regatta include boats owned by some. Of the wealthiest. Folks in Sweden – Wallenberg, etc. Island across from Sandhamn is. Owned by KSSS- better harbor, accomidtions for sailors n regattas.
Weather says winds 16kts. More here. Some clearing in the distance. Wind shifting. Skippers meeting at 11 fist gun at 12
Http://KSSS.se Royal Swedish Yacht Club
Fri August 12
Cold again this morning. 41 in Stockholm. A little warmer here. 50 in boat. Used bot h duvets last night so plenty warm enough.
Great sail. Lovely breeze. Back in Saltsjobaden about lunch time. Lots of spots when we got here. Filled completely by 4:30
Meet Britsh couple Nicola and Jeery docked next to us. Honda 37. Drinks and dinner at restaurant. Meals were really good.
Update from Lynn. There flight is still delayed. At 6pm they have been on plane for more than three hours and still at gate.
Mon Aug 8
We are off again. Heading for Sandhamn. We have reservation for 2 nights. This is the main town at the most eastern side of the Stockholm archipelago.
Fairly strong wind 20-25 in the wrong direction so we motored. Boats coming the other way had nice downwind sail. We went through the passage between moja an moja s. Fairly narrow and protected with lots of houses and docks on both sides.
Islands are smaller and more rocks than trees. Some submerged rocks within large open water. Lots of lighthouses around.
Big marina with more than 200 guest docks. Lots of shop and restaurants. Large residential area. Several ferries so variety of schedules. Quickest way to Stockholm is ferry and bus.
Tues Aug 9
Can stay longer than 2 nights. Dock spot reservations blocked for regatta. Yacht club discount too.
Nice chest with Peter Ruyer and tour of his Hsns Christian Christina. Older style double ender he refitted. His business is hydropower.se.
Refrigeration will be an issue. Battery only recharging from engine. Refrig doesn’t run on shore power. Batteries replaced with lithium ion so pretty specialized set up
Wed Aug 10
Lynn and Ken off on the 9:30 direct ferry – goes non-stop to St. Where they get a bus into the central station. Travel time 1:30
Hotel took the laundry at 10:30 and said it would be ready about 3. Went over about 4 and desk lady went to collect it from housekeeping Stroll warm
Met Peter’s daughter Clara who is staying with him on the orator a few days. She has just returned from 2 years in Australia. She previously studied marine biology in Hawaii for several months and travelled with her sister from LA to New York Ina van, camping along the way. She is applying to universities – will be a middle school teacher teaching Swedish and English she currently has a pretty pronounced Aussie accent. A little weird for a Swede.
We tried the seglarbulle – sailor buns from the bakery as recommended, ok similar to light fluffy hot cross buns with sugar crystals rather than icing crosses. Interesting bread – bigger, fatter longl loaves than French style baguettes .lovely light texture with fairly thick crispy crust.
Turns out the regatta is for classic boats – dragons and meter boats including 5 meter boats. Not seen those before,, several of them and they seem very friendly. Also 10 meters andacouple of 12s as well. As any don’t have engines, they are being towed into the marina. The staff are great at getting everyone situated, challenging when many are drifting or paddling. Still expecting a lot of wind for the next couple of days so going out. To watch might not be fun. Wind today would have been great for sailing from Stockholm – 15-20 most of the day.
Dinner at pub again..Tonight. Had fish stew/soup /casserole as. Recommended. Really good. Nice chucks of salmon, other fish, shrimp, tomato, fennel in a light rich broth with bread and. Garlic spread to go with.
Fri Jul 29
JFK Roasted veggie pizza at Wolfgang Puck wood fired oven food court stand at Terminal 7. One of the best ever. Seriously.
Icelandic air in flight video tours of 10 regions in Iceland.
Sat Jul 30
We just arrived Stockholm yesterday. Went to Mamma Mia – the Party dinner and ABBA musical last evening. Today met with owner of sail boat we are charity here for 3 weeks.
Sun Jul 31
Met the owner of the boat. Va d’eau is a Jenneau 38? Looks nice. Well fitted out. Good safety briefing of boat overall. Went over the suggested route. Nice tour of the area. Suggests we moved to the next harbor where there is a restaurant. Too windy to do that today. Still pretty tired.
Grocery shopping at local ICA supermarket. Then took a taxi back to the boat. Secured the boat better as it is still gusty. Early supper with .9% pear cider – only beer and cider available at grocery store. Wine and liquor store closed Sunday.
Sun July 31
Va d’eau at yacht harbor
Mon Aug 1
Coffee from press clogs drain. Plunger in head. Fixed.
Nice sail in morning. Light variable. Everything works ok.
Return to next harbor per Rieder suggestion. Bay with grand hotel.
Saltsjobaden hotellviken. KSSS. Royal Swedish Yacht Club.
Guest dock in front of restaurant
First docking cbb. Snag stem tie float from port rail. People on dock help with bow lines. Less speed to avoid meeting dock.
Lunch at Holmen restaurant. Casual outdoor eating on the water. Walked to Hotel. Not any shopping
Salts admen to Stockholm. About 2 hours.. Used ty used the iPad app sea for charts. Hand held gps was out of batteries again. Need to find a manual in English online to figure out why it is eating batteries.
Spot at the Wassa marina was empty even though neighbor was attached to 1 stern mooring bouts, ok to attach us too. Nice folks on shore caught bow lines. They had been in this slip last night (and been required to move for or prior reservationa9.
Codes for school, showers – change every day at pm. We got 3 mon am, mon pm – Tuesday am, Tuesday pm,,, washer and dryer are free.need to signup to reserve a time, otherwise just use. ICA grocery not far. Some people walking with bags. Walked over to little supermarket to west and got a few things. Will do bigger show when Ken and Lynn get here.
Ferry to old Town. Actuall we got off too soon but walked around along waterfront,, pasted tall ship, museum of art being renovated. Pic glass of wine at at the waterfront near ferry.. Trying to get SL Acess cards to get 72 her rider pricing- card not available. Walked around aOld Town. Very touristy, sometwhat more expensive.. Found a nice small place for dinner. M – smoked salmon, dill potatoes. V- meatballs with mashed potatoes.
We’re able to get the SL card at Pass… After finding 7 eleven – no cards but directed us down road 100 meters.
Email from lynn and ken. they are on their way. Checked in atMCO at least.
Have Stockholm map with trains including Turin/bus to boat harbor
Found Wikipedia picture of Stockholm metro station and metro station on map. Not a high priority must see but kind of fun fact.
Lynn and Ken arrived this morning. Fika – coffee and cinnamon buns Lynn had a lovely salmon open face sandwich. Needed protein. Then off to shop at ICA nearby. Lunch on boat. Shrimp sandwiches. Lynn and ken napped while we to tram to end of line in kurgan ten shopping district. Found system bogart head office but no retail store at next two locations in kens gps. Finally asked 2 city workers who directed us.
Vasa museum. Amazing story. Craftsmanship on carvings all over ship. Interesting depiction of life and times.
Ferry to old town. Dinner. Meatballs. Salmon and spinach quiche. Petit pan. Pear cider.
Overnight in vaxholm. Pretty little town with great amenities and atmosphere. Lots of lovely houses apartments. Ferry to many other destinations. Buses and ferries to Stockholm. Castle fort accessible by cable ferry. Car ferry to next island runs several times per hour.
Several fortifications as defense for Stockholm.
Sailing with good breeze yesterday from Stockholm. 12 16 downwind. About 2 hours.
Fri Aug 5
Very family friendly. Weekend festival coming up. Walked to ferry dock past beach, farm animals. Nature trail.
Sat Aug 6
Ingmarso. Pleasant sail arrived about noon. Met neighbors Lars and Peter.
Lovely anniversary dinner at nice restaurant. Cod. Mackerel Rhubarb pie with local rhubarb was great. Fun to be celebrating in a wonderful new place with good friends.
Sun August 7
Headed out for Paradiset. Looked around. Looks pleasant. Dick with toilets. Also lots of boats tied to trees with stern anchors.
Off for a sail. Starting to return to Paradiset when boom came off the mast. Appears that the nut came off the bolt. Mike and ken were able to get it back together temporarily. Returned yo Ingmarso. There are marine parts at the gas dock and a marine yard.
Back at the dock Peter from the hams Christian came by. He took the bolt to his boat and returned with a nut that fit pretty well. Big struggle to get bolt back in with washers to prevent further wear. Peter came for a glass of wine and a chat.
Really interesting guy. Hydroelectric power stations around the world. Small ones.
Trouble with power to wifi router.
Lynn and Ken’s hotel in Stockholm.